Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier In Lucent Steel Watch Review
The Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier In Lucent Steel was launched earlier this year at Geneva Watch Days and is a nominee for the ‘Time Only’ prize at this year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). Angus Davies explains what is required for a watch to bear the prestigious Qualité Fleurier logo before examining this elegant L.U.C timepiece in detail.
Qualité Fleurier label – introduction
In the Val-de-Travers, located within the Swiss canton of Neuchâtel, there is a place where remarkable ticking creations are painstakingly crafted. Fleurier, a small town close to the border of France, is a haven of watchmaking excellence. It’s home to Chopard and Parmigiani Fleurier, with Bovet just 2 km away in nearby Môtiers. Dotted with numerous footpaths threading their way through tree-clad hillsides, the picture-perfect town sits beneath the all-seeing, all-knowing Chapeau de Napoléon, a lookout and restaurant, 961 m above sea level.
However, hidden from prying eyes, there is another side to Fleurier. Just stroll past 8, Rue du Temple, the location of Fleurier’s town hall, and listen carefully. Shhh…..be very quiet and you’ll be able to hear it; the sound of several watch movements, weeping and wailing as they are subjected to a tortuous regime.
The offices of Qualité Fleurier Certification are housed within Fleurier’s town hall. Far from the public’s gaze, the organisation’s technical team inflicts horological torture on a limited number of watch heads. These highly trained professionals seek to validate the provenance, quality, chronometry, durability and dynamic precision of high-end watches, all for the benefit of discerning horophiles.
The Fleurier Quality Foundation (Qualité Fleurier) was founded in 2001 by Bovet, Chopard, Parmigiani Fleurier and Vaucher. It is also supported by a number of other parties, including Neuchâtel Cantonal Government, the Municipality of Val-de-Travers, etc. Arguably one of the most stringent quality standards in watchmaking, the Qualité Fleurier encompasses an array of criteria.
Qualité Fleurier certification – criteria
Manufactured 100% in Switzerland
For a watch head to bear the prestigious symbol it must be ‘Manufactured 100% in Switzerland’. This covers all three parts of the watch head: the case, the display and the movement (including the casing ring). A raw material, such as steel can be sourced from outside Switzerland, but it ‘must be processed in Switzerland’. The list of requirements is lengthy and the QF auditors may ask for a certificate of origin, delivery notes, etc.
Quality of finish
The technical and aesthetic criteria that form part of the Qualité Fleurier have been determined by a group of experts from an array of disciplines, including research, teaching and production. Parts are supplied in a series of plastic kits, allowing the audit team to examine each component including the finishes applied to its various surfaces. In common with the Poinçon de Genève (see later), all visible burrs must be removed, screw heads must be flat, polished and have bevelled slots and rims. Furthermore, jewel and screw sinks must also be polished, the thickest part of a bridge or plate must be decorated…Quite simply, the list of requirements is endless and destined to keep a weary watchmaker awake at night.
To bear the Qualité Fleurier logo, the ‘movement must have a finish of exclusive aesthetic quality’.
Image – ©Patrick Csajko
Chronometry (COSC)
Each watch is subjected to the scrutiny of the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC). Evaluated over a 15-day period, the watch is checked at different temperatures and in a variety of positions ‘(3 o’clock, 6 o’clock, 9 o’clock, dial on top, dial on the bottom)’.
For a ‘balance spring wristwatch’ to be certified as a chronometer by COSC, it must meet various ‘minimum requirements’, eg the average daily rate must be -4 to +6 seconds per day (for a wristwatch with a fitting diameter greater than 20 mm or where the fitting surface area is greater than 314 mm²).
To bear the Qualité Fleurier logo ‘the movement must be COSC-certified’.
Durability (Chronofiable)
The Chronofiable®️ test, a trademark of Laboratoire Dubois SA, is ‘a guarantee of reliability for watch movements which have passed the corresponding test protocol.’ The objective is to identify ‘any design weaknesses’ and ‘ensure good product reliability before market launch.’
A brand seeking Qualité Fleurier certification will submit several watches for testing based on the number of units to be produced in the series. For example, if a company wishes to make a series of 101 – 200 units, it must submit 10 watches for testing.
Each watch is initially checked. The appraisal includes functions, operation, amplitude, temperature test, power reserve and winding speed. Thereafter, the watch is subjected to an ageing cycle where, over a 21 day period, the testing regime simulates 6 months of wear. During this process, the watch is exposed to 20,000 shocks between 250 and 5500 m/s² and at three different temperatures. After the ageing cycle has been completed, the watch is checked again ie functions, operation, amplitude, etc.
Other tests include pulling and pushing the winding stem, ‘tests on reactions to magnetic fields’, water resistance testing, etc.
To bear the Qualité Fleurier logo the movement must have passed the chronofiable test.
Dynamic precision (Fleuritest)
The final test that all wannabe QF-watches must face is the Fleuritest simulator. The timepiece is placed within a robotic device that simulates wearing the watch while conducting various tasks. It starts with simulating eating breakfast and dressing, getting out of a car, walking on foot, partaking in fitness activities, including jogging and running, etc, etc, etc.
Image – Fleuritest simulator
Lasting 24 hours, this exhaustive testing regime is designed to replicate all wearing situations, even wearing the watch at night. Synchronised with GPS, the rate of the watch is measured and must fall within the range of 0 to +5 seconds per day.
Unlike the tests performed by COSC, where the watch is held in a static position, the Fleuritest measures the dynamic precision of the watch.
To bear the Qualité Fleurier logo, ‘the running of the finished watch must have passed the Fleuritest’.
Qualité Fleurier v Poinçon de Genève
On several occasions, I have been asked which is superior, the Qualité Fleurier or the Poinçon de Genève (Geneva seal)? Both quality standards are the preserve of Haute Horlogerie. Moreover, both standards place much importance on the materials used, the specification of each component and the finishing techniques employed. Both standards look at quality assurance, various functional tests, accuracy, etc.
Put simply, whether your watch bears the Qualité Fleurier logo or the Poinçon de Genève, it will be made to an exacting standard, surpassing that of a ‘regular’ watch. The primary difference is that a timepiece bearing the Poinçon de Genève must be assembled and regulated within the canton of Geneva, whereas for a watch to be adorned with the QF logo it must be 100% Swiss.
By virtue of where it is assembled and regulated, namely Fleurier, the Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier In Lucent Steel cannot carry the Poinçon de Genève on its movement or case; however, rest assured, excellence is manifest throughout.
Incidentally, Chopard does assemble and regulate some L.U.C watches at its Geneva Headquarters that are hallmarked with Poinçon de Genève.
Chopard L.U.C 96-09-L movement
Based on my previous comments, it should come as no surprise to learn that the L.U.C 96-09-L movement is exquisitely finished. The mainplate is adorned with perlage, the bridges are embellished with Côtes de Genève motif and feature gleaming bevels, the sinks are polished, wheels are circular-grained, etc. Indeed, wherever you choose to look, excellence is omnipresent.
The movement features a ‘bi-directional micro-rotor in 22-carat gold’. A speciality of the house, the micro-rotor sits flush with neighbouring bridges, mitigating movement thickness (just 3.30 mm) while affording glorious views of the movement’s many refined finishes.
Despite its svelte profile, the movement features two stacked barrels. Termed ‘Chopard Twin technology’, the twin barrels deliver an impressive power reserve of 65 hours. Moreover, the Chopard Twin technology means the force serving the escapement is more linear when compared with a single barrel movement, thereby aiding rate stability.
Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier In Lucent Steel – dial
The dial comprises a seemly blend of finishes. The central area of the dial is adorned with a softly-spoken sunburst finish which is then encircled by a circular satin-finished hour track. Each hour is denoted with a faceted index. Those indexes located at the cardinal points incorporate luminescent fill, while the remaining hour markers feature a luminescent pearl, positioned adjacent.
Syringe-style hands, incorporating Super-LumiNova, articulate the prevailing hours and minutes efficiently and with notable style. A minute track fringes the dialscape, imparting meaning with a combination of Arabic numerals and strokes. A small seconds display, endowed with snailed detail, resides at 6 o’clock and completes the inventory of functions.
Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier In Lucent Steel – case
The Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier In Lucent Steel is housed in an understated 39 mm case, measuring 8.92 mm in thickness. As its name suggests, the case is crafted from Lucent Steel, a proprietary alloy that delivers an array of wearer benefits. The metal was first used on the inaugural Alpine Eagle model of 2019. Back then, the alloy consisted of ‘up to 70 percent recycled steel’, but this figure has since increased to ‘at least 80%’ with the brand stating it intends to raise the figure further to 90% by 2028.
Unlike conventional stainless steel, Lucent steel is smelted twice which enhances its purity. The resultant alloy is 50% harder than conventional steel, less prone to scratching and exhibits an extraordinary brilliance. Moreover, Lucent Steel is hypoallergenic.
Consistent with several earlier Chopard L.U.C models, the Qualité Fleurier In Lucent Steel juxtaposes polished and satin-brushed finishes. Indeed, the ‘case-middle and case-back’ are polished, while the ‘case-middle flanks’ are satin-brushed. This blend of finishes proves harmonious and tasteful.
Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier In Lucent Steel – closing remarks
Recently nominated for the ‘Time Only’ prize at this year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), time will tell (pun intended) whether the watch scoops an award on the 13 November; however, irrespective of whether this model wins or not, its excellence is beyond doubt.
The Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier In Lucent Steel indicates the time clearly and with an abundance of style. There is a welcome absence of vulgar showboating, just discreet luxury and gentlemanly decorum.
The case is beautifully proportioned and is crafted in an interesting alloy that confers an array of wearer benefits. Moreover, the movement is beautifully finished, features several technical refinements and comes with the reassurance of Qualité Fleurier Certification. It is this latter hallmark that differentiates this watch from the mainstream. The requirements of QF are onerous, especially the punishing regime of the Chronofiable test and the Fleuritest which differentiate true exemplars of Haute Horlogerie from mere pretenders. Indeed, similar to a marine assault course, it’s not for everyone and is the preserve of only a small band of brothers capable of success. Rest assured, the Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier In Lucent Steel makes the grade.
Further reading
https://www.chopard.com/
Technical specification
- Model: Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier In Lucent Steel
- Reference: 168631-3001
- Case: Lucent Steel, diameter 39 mm, height 8.92 mm, water resistance 3 ATM (30 metres), sapphire crystal to front, exhibition caseback.
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds
- Movement: Calibre L.U.C 96.09-L, self-winding movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz), 29 jewels, power reserve 65 hours, certified-chronometer (COSC) and Qualité Fleurier certificate
- Strap: brown calfskin strap with beige bridle stitching. Buckle in Lucent Steel
- Price: £18,300 (RRP as of 15.9.2024)