Formex is doing really cool things. Sure, you could say that I am biased, we have just released a limited edition with them recently, but my comment stems from the fact that the brand has just launched what I think is there most ambitious watch to date in the Stratos UTC 41mm Automatic. What we have is Formex’s unique take on a true traveller’s GMT watch and I think the result is great. Let’s get into it.
Design and Watch Specifications
Stainless steel, 41mm x 12mm x 46.5mm tounneau-esque multi-layered case, Stepped dial in grained & sunburst finshing (2 segments), Syringe minute & hour hands, Applied indices, Date disc @ 6 o’clock, 24-hour chapter ring, Staineless steel bezel w coloured resin filling, Sapphire crystal, Screw-down crown, 100m water resistant, 20mm lug width, Stainless steel bracelet and leather straps with carbonfibre clasp
At a glance, the Formex Stratos UTC 41mm may look like it has employed a similar case to its Essence of Reef case, but closer inspection will reflect that the case is very different, for the better. On the Stratos, the case if far closer to what I would describe as “tonneau-esque” with more cushioned sides that gains a healthy portion of complexity with its angular stepped nature, and shallow skeleton sides. The look is ruggedly sporty, yet with an intriguing level of refinement with its mix of brushed surfaces and polished bevels.
This complexity extends to the dial as well which has a multi-level design, with the sunburst centre dial and chapter ring sandwiching a dial ring that is grained finished. The dial also features a depressed date disc at 6 o’clock that is also grained finished. The combination adds a nice play of light that is further enhanced by the applied indices (including a cool font for the 3-6-9-12 numerals) and syringe minute and hour hands that somehow finds space for both brushing (middle segments) and polishing as well. The UTC or GMT indicators including the 24-hour scale on the chapter ring, 4th hand and day-night indicator come in bright orange which standout regardless of the three dial colours i.e. grey, green or blue.
Topping things off is the 24-hour stainless steel bezel that interestingly adds colour though resin filling. That’s certainly the first I have heard of a solution like that. Personally though, with the complexity of the case and dial, I do feel that the Stratos could have done without the bezel, especially when it already features a 24-hour scale on the chapter ring. This might have allowed for a greater appreciation for the new case which to me is the star of the watch. It might have also allowed for a more compact case than the 41mm x 12mm x 46.5mm dimensions though they are extremely wearable in of themselves already.
The watch comes with a comfortable 100m water resistance which will make the watch perfect for day to day use and travelling of course. It comes on a steel bracelet that features a patented 5mm fine adjustment system as well as with an additional leather strap (colour matched for blue and green, brown for the grey) with a carbon fibre clasp.
Movement
ETA 2892 (Top grade) w UTC timezone, Custom Dubois-Dépraz module, Regulated to -/+5s a day, 4Hz, 42 hours power reserve
The movement is where things get interesting. One of the messier aspects of a traveller’s GMT is the inability to set the date independently from the hour hand, which then requires cycling through up to 24 turns to advance the date once. On the Stratos UTC though, the brand has solved that problem by adding 2 pushers to the right of the case that sandwich the screwed-down crown which can advance or reverse the independent hour hand. This has been achieved through a custom Dubois-Dépraz module that allows for the hour hand to be controlled via the pushers. This leaves the crown free for the quick set of the date. It is an impressive innovation in my opinion especially given that the movement starts out being an ETA 2892 movement.
Price & Availability
CHF 3,500, Regular Production
The watches cost CHF 3,500 which is definitely pricier than the brand’s norm, but the Stratos UTC is not a normal release from Formex. It is probably the most innovative release that the brand has done to date, and addresses an actual functional issue with travellers’ GMT watches so I personally have no complaints. The watches can be purchased from the brand’s website at www.formex.com.
Concluding Thoughts
I started the article by highlighting how Formex has been doing great things, and this watch certainly lives up to that. The watch overall is very impressive, mixing new (to the brand) levels of case complexity and finishing with innovative solutions on the movement front. The dials are great to look at too. As a whole package, I think Formex has another hit on their hands.
