Moser’s new Pioneer Retrograde Seconds features a cool retrograde seconds function.
The Pioneer Retrograde Seconds is delivered in a sporty 42.8 mm x 14.2 mm stainless steel case, with cutouts along the case flanks that lighten the watch.
Instead of a traditional seconds display, at 6 o’clock Moser has implemented a retrograde hand that moves left to right, in an arc, every 30 seconds, then instantly jumps back and does it again, thanks to the double snail cam mechanism visible in the center of the display. “At the end of each cycle, the snail, which is in permanent contact with the sector or finger, releases the energy accumulated and stored by a hairspring located under the seconds hand axis, with a stud holder mounted on the mainplate. The rack, which is also visible under the retrograde seconds bridge, positions the hand precisely on its path and releases the accumulated energy all at once, while keeping the mechanism under control,” according to Moser. Interesintly, a two-tone disc beneath the snail indicates whether the watch is in the first or second 30-second period of the cycle.
In addition to the retrograde complication, another notable design element is the midnight blue fumé with a sunburst pattern (and H. Moser & Cie. logo in transparent lacquer), which is similar to what you see on many Moser watches, except for the faceted applied indices, leaf-shaped skeleton hour and minute hands, retrograde seconds display that looks like a speedometer, rubber strap, and sporty case resulting in an appealing aesthetic that’s more suited for casual than dress occasions. A screw-down crown and 120 meters of water resistance add to the sporty vibe.
To deliver the retrograde functionality, Moser took its HMC caliber 2oo automatic and worked with Agenhor SA (retrograde mechanisms are one of its specialties) to develop a 30-second retrograde module, resulting in caliber 250. The 32.0 mm x 6.5 mm movement beats at 3Hz, has 31 jewels, has a 72-hour power reserve, and uses a bi-directional pawl winding system. The movement features hacking seconds, an Original Straumann® balance spring (owned by Moser), an anthracite finish with Moser double stripes, and an engraved oscillating weight.
Similar to a tourbillon, the retrograde mechanism gives you something animated to look at on the dial side, beyond the traditional rotation of the watch’s hands. The fumé dial, sporty case, and in-house movement all add to the appeal, but the price might be steep considering the component edges appear to be machine-finished.
The Moser Pioneer Retrograde Seconds (Ref. 3250-1200) comes with a domed sapphire crystal and see-through caseback and is available with either hand-stitched alligator leather, a perforated rubber strap (shown), a textile strap, or a steel bracelet. Retail is $21,900.
Learn more at Moser.
Photos by Moser.