Panerai Navy SEALs Submersible Collection

Panerai Navy SEALs Submersible Collection Watch Review

The Panerai Navy SEALs Submersible Collection comprises four models, the PAM01518, PAM01513, PAM01669 and the top of the range PAM01521. Dressed in a fusion of stealthy shades, including khaki, fawn and taupe, these latest watches are ideally suited to desert terrain. However, as Angus Davies, a self-confessed Paneristi, explains, these models are more than capable of subaquatic adventure and are reassuringly rich in the brand’s legendary Italianate style.

Image – Panerai Submersible Chronograph NAVY SEALs Titanio (PAM01521)

Panerai watches (1860)

Panerai can trace its origins to 1860 when Giovanni Panerai (1825-1897) opened a watch shop in Florence. In 1864, his grandson, Guido went onto establish his own business, Guido Panerai & Figlio, a specialist company developing high precision instruments for the Royal Italian Navy. Later, in 1913, the company began making high precision, luminous instruments such as timing mechanisms, depth gauges and mechanical calculators. But perhaps most pertinently for ESCAPEMENT readers, Panerai began making pocket stopwatches in 1935. Thereafter, the now famous horological marque became associated with the marine world, especially diving, courtesy of its longstanding relationship with the Royal Italian Navy.

Panerai  x Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli sailing team (2022)

In more recent times, the Paneristi has witnessed the brand release numerous models, including a series of Luna Rossa models, celebrating the Italian-Swiss firm’s association with the Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli sailing team. Dressed in an aquatic-inspired shade of blue, these watches reinforce the company’s association with the marine world.

Image – Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro GMT Navy SEALs Carbotech (PAM01513)

Panerai Navy SEALs Submersible Collection 2024

Based on its fondness for life above and below the waves, it may come as a surprise to see Panerai release four new models, each dressed in desert-themed garb. This quartet of Panerai models will readily melt into a sandy landscape with their bi-material straps that fuse stealthy shades of khaki, fawn and taupe. It begs the question, has the marketing-savvy watch brand lost its way? Not a bit of it, these four new models celebrate the brand’s ongoing relationship with the United States Navy SEALs, an association it consummated back in 2022.

Image – Panerai Submersible NAVY SEALs Titanio (PAM01669)

The Navy SEALs are highly trained military personnel, capable of conducting special operations in any arena: air, land or sea. These latest models brim with testosterone and appear ready to operate in most military theatres, thanks to their rugged construction. Beyond the desert-themed straps, all models are equipped with degradé dials, featuring anthracite at the centre that transitions to black near the periphery of the dial. Likewise, the small seconds display at 9 o’clock, part of Panerai’s vernacular design that’s much loved by brand devotees, incorporates a crosshairs motif.

Image – Panerai Submersible Chronograph NAVY SEALs Titanio (PAM01521)

The Submersible is an evolution of the original Luminor model, albeit it is now a stand-alone collection in its own right. In common with all Luminor models, each member of the Panerai Navy SEALs Submersible Collection is equipped with ‘the lever device protecting the winding crown’, positioned at 3 o’clock. Likewise, all models are endowed with the sturdy horn-shaped lugs that Panerai first adopted back in the ’40s. At the time, these replaced the wire loop attachments found on earlier models.

Image – Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro Navy SEALs (PAM01518)

However, while every member of the Panerai Navy SEALs Submersible Collection shares a familial likeness, they all have their own unique characteristics. Allow me to elaborate.

Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro Navy SEALs (PAM01518)

For Panerai traditionalists, the Submersible QuarantaQuattro Navy SEALs bears the strongest resemblance to the brand’s historical references. Housed in a stainless steel case, measuring 44 mm in diameter, the watch is unapologetically masculine.

The unidirectional rotational bezel, featuring prominent reference markers in relief, reinforces the brand’s subaquatic heritage. Likewise, the sand-coloured Super-LumiNova upholds Panerai’s reputation for readability, even in the most challenging environments. The model is also water resistant to 30 ATM (300 m). Finally, at the heart of the PAM01518 sits the automatic P.900 calibre. Unveiled back in 2019, this in-house movement features a single barrel that can run autonomously for 3 days.

• Price: £8,800 (RRP as of 26.9.2024).    

Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro GMT Navy SEALs Carbotech (PAM01513)

In recent years, Panerai has demonstrated a fondness for innovative materials. For example, the company has modified an array of noble metals, releasing Goldtech and Platinumtech as well as creating avant-garde materials such as BMG-Tech, Ti-Ceramitech, etc.

Back in 2015, Panerai released two models, the PAM01616 (47 mm) and the PAM00960 (42 mm), both housed in Carbotech. This proprietary material, formed of very thin sheets of carbon fibre combined with a polymer termed PEEK (Polyether Ether Ketone), all united using heat and pressure, has since featured on further Panerai models. Carbotech is light, strong and not liable to corrosion, a winning combination for intrepid types.

As its name implies, the Submersible QuarantaQuattro GMT Navy SEALs Carbotech is also housed in the lightweight material. Once again, the case measures 44 mm in diameter, but on this occasion it is fitted with a Carbotech unidirectional bezel. The PAM01513 is water resistant to 50 ATM (500 m). The movement, the automatic P.900/GMT calibre, shares much in common with the automatic P.900 calibre but comes with the added benefit of a dual time/GMT-function.

• Price: £17,000 (RRP as of 26.9.2024).    

Panerai Submersible NAVY SEALs Titanio (PAM01669)

Like many of my fellow Paneristi, the Luminor 1950 PAM127, aka the ‘Fiddy’, remains on my list of grail watches. Measuring 47 mm in diameter, it seems far removed from the prevailing trend for sub-40 mm dimensions. For this reason, the Submersible Titanio SEALs is destined to evoke nostalgic thoughts and elicit words of undying love. Occupying the same footprint as the Fiddy, the new PAM01669 is housed in a 47 mm case, but on this occasion is formed of Grade 5 titanium, making it far lighter than the aforementioned grail watch.

Grade 5 titanium should not be confused with cheaper Grade 2 titanium. The former metal is an alloy comprising almost 90% titanium, 6% aluminium, 4% vanadium along with small traces of iron and oxygen. It is stronger and harder than its cheaper cousin which makes it more challenging to process. The material is lightweight, non-magnetic, not liable to corrosion and hypoallergenic; all of which prove compelling reasons for selection. Some watch brands opt for Grade 5 titanium as it can be polished to a resplendent gleam, unlike Grade 2 titanium; however, on this occasion, Panerai has opted to present the lightweight alloy in a restrained, semi-covert brushed finish. The model is water resistant to 30 ATM (300 m).

Panerai has introduced an eye-catching quotient of contrast by juxtaposing the silver-hues of the titanium case with a clandestine unidirectional Carbotech bezel. The PAM01669 is fitted with the automatic P.9010 calibre. This movement is equipped with two barrels, providing 3 days of autonomy.

• Price: £11,800 (RRP as of 26.9.2024).    

Panerai Submersible Chronograph NAVY SEALs Titanio (PAM01521)

Last, but certainly not least, the PAM01521 rounds out the Panerai Navy SEALs Submersible Collection. This chronograph is endowed with the Panerai P.9100/R calibre, a refined movement that unites a column wheel and vertical coupling. The watch has a flyback function and includes two central chronograph hands, indicating the elapsed seconds and minutes. Most notably, the model has a countdown function. Courtesy of two barrels, the watch will run autonomously for up to 3 days.

The PAM01521 is housed in a 47 mm case formed of titanium and coated in black DLC. It is water resistant to 50 ATM ( 500 m). Limited to just 80 pieces, the Panerai Submersible Chronograph NAVY SEALs Titanio should prove a rare sight and is destined to be a sell-out success.

• Price: £29,700 (RRP as of 26.9.2024).
• Limited Edition: 80 pieces.