Perrelet Turbine Carbon Ice Blue 44 mm Watch Review
At Geneva Watch Days, Perrelet unveiled the Turbine Carbon Ice Blue 44 mm as well as a second reference measuring 41 mm. The watches share the same colourway, but their specification slightly differs. Angus Davies, a man who has a penchant for supersizing any dish, explains why the 44 mm option is his favourite Turbine to date.
California dials
To a kid growing up in Lancashire during the 70s, the idea of California always sounded an exciting prospect. Hollywood, palm-tree-lined boulevards, muscle cars, Muscle Beach and glamorous people ‘dressed to the nines’. It seemed a far cry from the soot-clad streets and dark Satanic mills of my youth. Ah, California… the land of dreams.
California also evokes pleasant thoughts among the watch collecting community. The California dial refers to a dial that features a mix of Arabic and Roman numerals. Sometimes termed an ‘error-proof dial’, this highly legible horological vista was originally produced for combat divers during World War II. Patented by Rolex in 1942, the distinctive dial has since been adopted by several other brands and is now beloved by legions of horophiles.
But where does the term ‘California dial’ originate from? Despite trawling the web, I’ve not been able to find a definitive answer, merely a myriad of theories.
One thing is certain, the crisp ‘California-style’ ice blue hour track fitted to the new Perrelet Turbine Carbon Ice Blue 44 mm looks gorgeous! Indeed, this is my favourite Turbine reference to date, of that, I’m sure.
Perrelet Turbine
Abraham-Louis Perrelet (1729-1826) ‘brought to life the first automatic winding watch in the history of watchmaking’ (1777). His ingenious semi-circular oscillating weight energised the mainspring as it rotated, irrespective of its direction of travel. Today, most automatic watches employ Perrelet’s ingenious mechanism.
In 1995, clearly wishing to celebrate its rich patrimony, Perrelet launched the ‘Double Rotor’. This watch featured two oscillating weights, one to the rear and, unusually, a second to the front. Both rotors were functional, working in harmony to tension the mainspring.
Sometime later, in 2009, having identified that many horophiles appreciate a dose of dial-side animation, Perrelet unveiled the Turbine. In common with the Double Rotor, it had a regular oscillating weight, positioned to the rear. However, the Turbine eschewed the dial-side rotor, supplanting it with 12 anodised aluminium blades. Moreover, unlike its forebears, the Turbine was not connected to the movement.
This independence allowed the Turbine to rotate with incredible alacrity, bursting into life with just the merest suggestion of wrist motion. While not energising the mainspring, the Turbine granted a powerful, unprecedented aesthetic. Comprising a Turbine positioned above a lower dial, the fast rotational speed of the turbine revealed increasing amounts of the lower surface.
Over the years, Perrelet has adorned the lower dial and turbines with an array of hues, patterns and artistic scenes, thereby showcasing its creative prowess.
Perrelet Turbine Carbon Ice Blue 41 mm (Ref. A4067/7)
At Geneva Watch Days, Perrelet unveiled two new iterations of the Turbine, both inspired by Switzerland’s famous Grande Dixence dam (the highest gravity dam in the world). Fed by the melting waters of 35 Valaisian glaciers, the dam assumes a frosty white and icy blue appearance during the winter months; colours celebrated with the advent of the new Turbine Ice Blue models.
The first of the two models unveiled at the annual watch fair is housed in a 41 mm Grade 2 titanium case, dressed in black DLC. The hour track, in common with other Turbine models, sits above the turbine. The even-numbered hours cantilever beyond the hour track, introducing a delightful play with depths. Perrelet has selected plump Arabic numerals for the even-numbered hours, with short batons positioned in between that denote the odd-numbered hours. White luminescent numerals are set against a black backdrop, aiding readability, while a neat minute track fringes the display.
As the turbine begins to rotate and its speed increases, the lower dial becomes increasingly visible. Dressed in a light shade of sky blue, as if nipped by the mountain air, the horological landscape exhibits a welcome freshness. This blue hue is repeated on the slender centre seconds hand, while the hour and minute hands are executed in white and lined with Super-LumiNova.
The Perrelet Turbine Carbon Ice Blue 41 mm is fitted with the tried and tested Calibre P-331-MH (more on this later) and comes presented on an ice blue rubber strap fitted with a black DLC coated titanium pin buckle.
Perrelet Turbine Carbon Ice Blue 44 mm (Ref. A4065/5)
When writing about watches in a journalistic capacity, I strive not to have favourites. It’s a lesson I’ve learnt from being a father of two. However, on this occasion, to my professional shame, I confess to favouring the Turbine Carbon Ice Blue 44 mm.
The horological seduction begins with the case. The main body is formed of polycarbonate and carbon fibre bestowing a fascinating marble-like surface subtly marked with swirls of black and grey. The 44 mm case diameter also affords more room for the dial to breathe and allows the turbine to hypnotise onlookers with its twirling dance. Notably larger than its 41 mm sibling, the Ref. A4065/5 wears smaller than its specification sheet would suggest due to the integrated strap design.
Perrelet has heightened the model’s visual allure with the use of black PVD-coated steel for the bezel and caseback. The muted contrast with the polycarbonate-carbon fibre ensemble confers a harmonious marriage of black and grey shades. Moreover, these stealthy hues play a deferential role, allowing the blue dial accents to ensnare the onlooker with their icy charms. The stitches punctuating the black calf leather strap repeat the ice blue theme.
All roads lead me to the face of the Turbine Carbon Ice Blue 44 mm, a dial imbued with freshness and a cheeky ‘come-hither’ character. When the turbines rotate, they flirt with the wearer and reveal an increasing amount of the ice blue underlayer. This dynamic behaviour augments interest without detracting from the enunciation of time.
White fulsome hour and minute hands, edged in blue and filled with Super-LumiNova efficiently convey meaning in various light conditions. The centre seconds hand, like its counterpart fitted to the 41 mm model, is blue albeit on this occasion it’s executed in a darker shade.
The pièce de resistance is undoubtedly the hour track. Upholding Turbine tradition, the even-numbered values are mounted on neat plinths and project from the track over the swirling turbine below. However, unlike its forbears, the Turbine Carbon Ice Blue 44 mm features the aforementioned ‘California-style’ ice blue chapter ring. Arabic numerals denote 2, 10 and 12 and Roman numerals proclaim 4, 6 and 8, while orderly batons mark the even values. It’s not a California dial per se due to the presence of the turbines, but nevertheless, the hour track subscribes to the ‘error-proof’ idea.
Perrelet Calibre P-331-MH
With my mother’s advice still ringing in my ideas, I can see ‘beyond a pretty face’ and recognise the importance of an intelligent mind and a reliable partner. In this instance, the Calibre P-331-MH sits at the heart of the watch. It is the same automatic calibre fitted to the smaller Perrelet Turbine Carbon Ice Blue 41 mm. I’ve written about the Calibre P-331-MH at length previously; however, I will point out just two of the several product highlights.
Firstly, the Calibre P-331-MH is COSC certified. The Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC) is an independent, not-for-profit Swiss certification body testing the precision of both mechanical and quartz movements. In terms of mechanical movements, the calibre is subjected to 15 days of testing and the regularity of the calibre is assessed with due consideration to temperature and position. For a movement to be certified as a ‘chronometer’ by COSC, it must meet various requirements. As an example, the ‘average daily rate’ should be -4 /+6 seconds per day (criteria for wristwatches with a fitting diameter greater than 20 mm or where the fitting surface area is greater than 314 mm²).
Secondly, the Calibre P-331-MH is Chronofiable®️. This registered trademark, owned by Laboratoire Dubois, is ‘a guarantee of reliability for watch movements which have passed the corresponding test protocol.’ The testing regime developed during the 70s accelerates the ageing cycle, simulating the effects of wearing the watch. Tested over 21 days, the Chronofiable®️ ageing cycle simulates the effects of 6 months wear and includes subjecting the movement to 20,000 impacts of varying magnitude. In addition, the movement is tested at three different temperatures.
Perrelet Turbine Carbon Ice Blue 44 mm – closing remarks
Since releasing its inaugural Turbine model in 2009, Perrelet has embraced the unique dial-side animation proffered by 12 aluminium blades rotating in unison. As stated earlier, the Maison has employed a multitude of colours and patterns and adorned the lower dial layer with a variety of scenes. The resultant watches have ranged from under-the-radar black-on-black creations to ebullient rainbow models embracing every constituent wavelength of the electromagnetic spectrum. Quite simply, Perrelet’s capacity for invention knows no bounds.
The Perrelet Turbine Carbon Ice Blue 41 mm is undoubtedly a handsome timepiece and for some horophiles it may prove to be their perfect watch; however, I only have eyes for its larger sister, blessed with a 44 mm waistline. The strap nuzzles the watch head and sits perpendicular to the caseback, ready to encircle the wrist. It is these latter characteristics which make the watch seemingly shrink when placed upon the arm.
While many industry commentators fixate on sub-40mm diameters, a fulsome torso can confer some useful benefits. In this instance, the 44 mm case accommodates an expansive dial area, aiding readability and affording the Swiss marque with sufficient room to showcase the lower dial and allow the turbine to flaunt its dance moves.
Beneath the flirtatious dial, the Calibre P-331-MH promises precision and reliability, all reassuringly backed up with a series of independent test results.
Then there is the matter of the ‘California-style’ ice blue chapter ring (hour track). It proves eminently simple to read, delivers a huge quotient of style and surpasses the sometimes perfunctory display found on some rival watches.
But most of all, the Perrelet Turbine Carbon Ice Blue 44 mm evokes thoughts. It is rich in symbolism with its Grande-Dixence-dam-inspired colour scheme and California-style hour track. Indeed, for a working class lad from Lancashire, this watch conjures up thoughts of California girls, surfing, views of the Pacific Ocean…
Put simply, with this latest 44 mm beauty, I’m California Dreamin’.
Further reading
https://perrelet.com/
Technical specifications
- Model: Perrelet Turbine Carbon Ice Blue 44 mm
- Reference: A4065/5
- Case: central body in polycarbonate and carbon fibre, bezel in stainless steel with matte black PVD coating, diameter 44 mm, height 13.82 mm, water resistance 10 ATM (100 m), sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, centre seconds
- Movement: Perrelet in-house calibre P-331-MH, self-winding movement, frequency 28,800vph (4Hz), 25 jewels, power reserve (fully wound) = 42 hours, Chronofiable and COSC-certified
- Strap: black calf leather strap with alligator pattern, ice blue stitching, rubber lining and folding buckle in black PVD steel
- Price: €4,980 (RRP as of 13.9.2024)
- Model: Perrelet Turbine Carbon Ice Blue 41 mm
- Reference: A4067/7
- Case: Grade 2 titanium with black DLC coating, diameter 41 mm, height 13.90 mm, water resistance 10 ATM (100 m), sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, centre seconds
- Movement: Perrelet in-house calibre P-331-MH, self-winding movement, frequency 28,800vph (4Hz), 25 jewels, power reserve (fully wound) = 42 hours, Chronofiable and COSC-certified
- Strap: ice blue rubber strap with black DLC coated titanium pin buckle
- Price: €4,980 (RRP as of 13.9.2024)
