Schwarz Etienne Roma Geometry Cherry

Schwarz Etienne Roma Geometry Cherry Watch Review

The Schwarz Etienne Roma Geometry Cherry is a new addition to the Roma collection. Last year (2023), the Swiss brand released the Roma Geometry in two dial colours: salmon and silver. These models immediately stood out from the crowd, courtesy of their distinctive dial designs; the product of Eric Giroud’s imagination. Eminently stylish, the Roma Geometry comes with a highly refined Manufacture movement equipped with a micro-rotor. Recently, Angus Davies got hands-on with the Roma Geometry Cherry and after appraising its dial, reflected on life’s journey and the many twists and turns it takes along the way.

Schwarz Etienne watch

The Romans recognised that straight roads would provide the most efficient means of moving vast armies from A to B. Likewise, most individuals embark on life’s journey clearly intending to transit from one moment to the next as quickly and easily as possible. However, despite charting a straight course, fate inevitably intervenes, presenting obstacles along way that necessitate deviating from the intended route.

Occasionally, the ground beneath our feet dramatically shifts as life’s tectonic plates move, throwing us of course. Recently, I wore a watch endowed with a dial that seems to depict life’s intricate plot of lines, arcs and seismic shifts.

The Schwarz Etienne Roma Geometry, first unveiled in 2023, was initially offered in two dial hues: salmon and silver. Housed in a 39 mm stainless steel case, the timepiece was masterminded by acclaimed watch designer, Eric Giroud. Now, the Swiss firm based in La Chaux-de-Fonds has released an additional Roma Geometry reference sporting a cherry-coloured dial. Despite swearing undying love for the salmon dial at the time of its launch, the younger cherry option has definitely turned my head. Allow me to elaborate.

Schwarz Etienne Roma Geometry Cherry dial

Formed of 18-carat gold, the dial’s epidermis is suffused with a vivid shade of cherry red. However, describing the dial as simply ‘cherry’ doesn’t adequately convey its nuanced complexion. Indeed, if you hold the watch head between your forefinger and thumb and view it from an array of angles, in a variety of light conditions, you will find it evinces several seductive shades of red. Burgundy, cadmium, crimson, raspberry, scarlet and vermillion are just some of the red tints that appear with a little bit of case tilting. There is a sparsity of ‘cherry’ dials on the market, making this Schwarz Etienne stand out from the crowd.

Beyond its ebullient red tones, the dial of the Schwarz Etienne Roma Geometry Cherry is divided into four quadrants, each embellished with a number of contrasting motifs. Concentric circles appear to emanate from the fulcrum of the dial, sitting perpendicular to crisp fluted lines. Other areas of the display are enriched with Clous de Paris, while smooth black sections of dial are adorned with crisp white markings, aiding readability and stylishly punctuating the red vista.

Giroud has ingeniously repositioned the constituent parts of each quadrant, shifting the arrangement of patterns and playing with the wearer’s perception of order. The dial is like a metaphor for life itself, where our path doesn’t always follow our intended route, but occasionally veers in a different direction.

Silver-toned, lancine-style hands declare the hour and minutes in lucid form. The minute track may be located in different places in each quadrant, but the corresponding minute hand constantly kisses the white markings on the track, lucidly imparting meaning. A small seconds display resides at 6 o’clock and features a lone hand teamed with neat white strokes.

While Giroud has imbued the Roma Geometry Cherry with an abundance of style, he has not forfeited readability. Indeed, the dial of this watch is both functional and beautifully formed.

Schwarz Etienne Roma Geometry Cherry case

 Over the years, Schwarz Etienne has produced some large watches such as the Roswell, a timepiece measuring 45 mm in diameter. However, with the release of the Roma Geometry, a model housed in a 39 mm case, the brand has clearly recognised the widespread fondness for neater proportions among the watch-buying public. 

Beyond its modest width, the Roma Geometry has tidy, arcing lugs that do not project far beyond the dial, again mitigating the overall sense of scale. Indeed, this is a watch that doesn’t overwhelm the wrist, but instead cossets the arm wonderfully.

With a case thickness of 11.0 mm, the watch head is not ultra-thin, but it’s certainly slender, readily slipping beneath a shirt cuff. The automatic movement, the Calibre ASE 200.02, measuring just 5.35 mm in height, is the primary reason for the model’s svelte profile; a factor I will return to later.

The caseback is flat and includes a large pane of sapphire crystal, granting sight of the Manufacture movement. The flat caseback and arcing lugs nuzzle the fleshy part of the wrist, conferring an ergonomic union par excellence.

Schwarz Etienne has chosen to endow the case with highly polished surfaces throughout. The product of protracted burnishing, the case sparkles like a precious gem. Sometimes, such noticeable twinkling can deflect attention away from the headline act, namely the dial; however, in this instance, the gleaming case sits in concert with the cherry-coloured display.

The Schwarz Etienne Roma Geometry Cherry is presented on a black leather strap, featuring a brown leather lining, and is paired with a stainless steel folding clasp.

Schwarz Etienne Manufacture automatic movement with micro-rotor ASE 200.02

A company with a history dating back to 1902, Schwarz Etienne is not only a producer of high-end watches, but also a movement specialist making calibres for several watch brands. Its expertise in making movements is evident with the Calibre ASE 200.02. Indeed, the Manufacture is one of the few companies with the necessary expertise in making automatic movements equipped with a micro-rotor.

The challenge with making a self-winding movement with a micro-rotor is in harnessing sufficient energy from the natural motion of the wearer’s wrist to adequately tension the mainspring. A full-size oscillating mass will typically create greater inertia due to its size, hence to counter this, micro-rotors will often incorporate features such as bidirectional winding and elaborate gearing. Moreover, they will often be made of a dense material such as tungsten. Schwarz Etienne has a talent for making micro-rotors, surmounting all technical challenges.

Certainly, this form of self-winding system delivers wearer benefits. Where a ‘regular’ automatic movement features a large semi-circular oscillating mass, positioned above the bridges, a micro-rotor sits within a recess, flush with neighbouring bridges. This grants two distinct benefits. Firstly, the movement is typically thinner, a characteristic usually reflected in a slimmer case profile. Secondly, due to the absence of a large oscillating mass, the wearer can enjoy unhindered views of the finely decorated bridges, etc.

In terms of finishing, Schwarz Etienne has certainly not shortchanged horophiles. Opting for a contemporary execution, the mainplate eschews traditional perlage in favour of a fine sandblasted finish, presented in a light shade of grey. This modern finish also extends to the bridges which share the same sandblasted treatment and sport gleaming bevelled edges. The appearance of the ratchet wheel is particularly noteworthy. It is adorned with ‘drops and snailing’ and, like the dial, the motifs readily toy with light.  

Schwarz Etienne Roma Geometry Cherry – closing remarks

The Schwarz Etienne Roma Geometry Cherry fulfils all practical requirements, delivering legibility, precision, wearer comfort and the convenience of a self-winding movement. However, owning a fine watch is not merely about reaching a destination, it is about the journey along the way.

Cherry tones evoke thoughts of sweet moments and happy times. The eponymous hue stands out from the crowd and differentiates this watch from the mainstream candidates such as black, white and blue.  

But most of all, Giroud has created an artistic canvas that wonderfully portrays life’s journey with the masterful use of curves, lines and textures. It serves as a reminder that life’s trajectory is rarely straight, but invariably twists and turns along the way. With is modestly sized dial, the Schwarz Etienne Roma Geometry Cherry expresses much meaning.

Further reading

https://www.schwarz-etienne.ch

Technical specifications

• Model: Schwarz Etienne Roma Geometry Cherry
• Reference: WROGEOMA67SSVEBCLTD
• Case: stainless steel, diameter 39 mm, height 11 mm, water resistance 5 ATM (50 metres), sapphire crystal to front; exhibition case back.
• Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds
• Movement: Calibre ASE 200.00; automatic movement; frequency 21,600 vph (3 Hz), 33 jewels, power reserve 86 hours, 198 components.
• Strap: black leather strap with brown leather lining paired with a stainless steel folding buckle with Schwarz Etienne logo
• Price: CHF 22,400 excluding VAT (RRP as of 16.9.2024)