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The Ultimate Guide to Rolex Reference Numbers in 2024

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The Ultimate Guide to Rolex Reference Numbers in 2024

Rolex watches are most frequently referred to by their shorthand model names, although each one can more accurately be described by its reference number. Many of Rolex’s most famous models have been produced in a variety of different executions throughout the years, and it is their reference numbers that allow collectors to quickly differentiate one iteration from another, without ever even seeing a photo of the watch. With that in mind, Rolex reference numbers have slowly been evolving, and even within the brand’s current 2024 catalog, not all reference numbers follow the same format. So, how do you navigate this ever-important system of digits and letters? Below is everything you need to know about Rolex reference numbers in 2024. 

What is a Rolex Reference Number? 

Rolex reference numbers are strings of letters and digits that form a system of codes that the famous Swiss manufacturer uses to identify its watches. Every single authentic Rolex watch will have its reference number engraved between the lugs on the 12 o’clock side of its case. The different digits and letters that form a Rolex reference number will tell you the watch model, the materials used in its construction, the style of the bezel that is fitted to it, and some will even offer additional details such as the color of the watch’s bezel or the type of gemstones that adorn its external components.  

With that in mind, Rolex reference numbers do not offer information about the type of dials or bracelets that are fitted to the watches, meaning that the exact same reference number can apply to multiple Rolex watches with very different appearances. Additionally, Rolex reference numbers have increased in length throughout the years, and the format of a watch’s reference number can differ depending on the specific model and when it was produced. It’s also worth noting that due to the positioning of Rolex reference number engravings, you won’t be able to see them unless you first remove the bracelet from the 12 o’clock side of the case, and sometimes only the base reference number is engraved, without any additional letter codes relating to its bezel or gemstones.  

About Rolex Reference Numbers in 2024 

While Rolex reference numbers originally started as simple four-digit numerical codes, they have slowly increased in length and complexity over the years as Rolex’s catalog has expanded. As of 2024, all current-production Rolex reference numbers contain either five or six numerals, with some followed by additional codes that consist of anywhere between two and four letters. The core string of numbers will describe the model of the watch and the materials used in its construction, while the optional letter code provides additional information relating to the color of the bezel that is fitted to the watch or the type of gemstones set into it. 

The meaning of the different digits that form Rolex reference numbers can differ between collections, and while the material codes follow a fairly rigid format, the bezel codes are a bit more nebulous. For example, the number “0” always denotes a stainless steel watch, while a material code of “3” always signifies a Yellow Rolesor watch that features both stainless steel and yellow gold components. However, when it comes to bezel codes, the number “3” corresponds to a fluted bezel on Datejust 36 and Datejust 41 watches, while a fluted bezel on the smaller Datejust 31 models is signified by a “7” for their bezel code. 

How to Read a Rolex Reference Number  

The easiest way to read a Rolex reference number is to work from left to right, and each section will provide additional information about the specific watch. The first string of five or six numerals will describe the core model, with the final digit signifying the materials that are used for its case. For example, both of the current-production stainless steel Submariner Date watches have reference numbers that start with 126610, while the Yellow Rolesor versions have reference numbers that begin with 126613, and the 18k yellow gold models have reference numbers starting with 126618. 

From here, the additional letter codes attached to the end of Rolex reference numbers will describe the bezel fitted to the watch with the letters standing for words in French. For example, the ref.126610LN is the classic black Submariner Date in stainless steel, while the ref. 126610LV is the version that is fitted with a green bezel. Additionally, while the ref. 126613LN is the two-tone Submariner with a black dial and bezel, the ref. 126613LB is the blue version that features a blue sunburst dial and a matching blue bezel insert. In these cases, the two-letter code describes the color of the bezel, with the “L” standing for “lunette” (which means bezel in French), and the second letter denoting the color of ceramic used for the insert — “N” for “noir” (black), “V” for “verte” (green), and “B” for “bleu” (blue). 

In addition to denoting the color of the bezel that is fitted to the watch, the additional letter codes attached to the end of Rolex reference numbers can also describe the type of gemstones that adorn its surfaces. For example, the various off-catalog Rainbow Daytona watches will all have the letters “RBOW” attached to the end of their reference numbers to signify their rainbow-colored gemstone bezels. Meanwhile, the gold Rolex Daytona watches with round diamond-set bezels will have the letters “RBR” at the end of their reference numbers, while the models with baguette diamond-set bezels will have the letters “TBR” to denote the difference in the cut of the diamonds (“R” for “round” and “T” for “tessellate”).  

Rolex Material Codes 

Although Rolex has updated the structure of its reference number system over the years, the most consistent part is the section that serves as the material code, and this appears as the final numerical digit in the string of five or six numbers. Below is a list of the material codes that appear in Rolex reference numbers for 2024. 

Rolex Letter Codes (Bezels, Colors, and Gemstones) 

The letter codes that sometimes appear at the end of Rolex reference numbers often describe the type of bezel that is fitted to the watch, and this generally corresponds with either its colorway or the type of gemstones that adorn its surfaces. Below is a list of all the letter codes that appear in Rolex’s 2024 catalog. 

While the list above includes all the letter codes you will encounter on Rolex’s official website, it is important to note that these codes only cover the brand’s standard-production models. In addition to all of the timepieces that are part of Rolex’s official lineup, the famous Swiss manufacturer also produces a small number of “off-catalog” pieces each year that are exclusively reserved for the brand’s VIP customers and never formally offered to the public. These ultra-rare Rolex watches are often encrusted in various gemstones, and this results in the other letter codes that you will sometimes see attached to the brand’s most premium offerings. 

For example, the various off-catalog Rainbow Daytona models will all have “RBOW” attached to their reference numbers, while the Day-Date 40 with a baguette ruby-set bezel uses the letter code “TRU” (which stands for “tessellate rubis”). Meanwhile, the gem-set GMT-Master II watches that have their split-color red and blue bezels rendered entirely in gemstones will have the letter code “SARU” to denote the sapphires and rubies that are used to create their luxurious renditions of the collection’s iconic “Pepsi” bezel. 

2024 Rolex Reference Numbers  

Each Rolex watch is assigned a reference number that describes the specific model and the materials used in its construction. Below are all of the Rolex reference numbers, grouped by collection, that are part of the brand’s catalog for 2024. 

Oyster Perpetual Reference Numbers  

Datejust Reference Numbers  

Lady-Datejust Reference Numbers  

Day-Date Reference Numbers  

Sky-Dweller Reference Numbers  

1908 Reference Numbers  

Submariner Reference Numbers 

Cosmograph Daytona Reference Numbers  

 

GMT-Master II Reference Numbers  

 

Explorer Reference Numbers  

Air-King Reference Numbers  

Yacht-Master Reference Numbers  

Sea-Dweller Reference Numbers  

Deepsea Reference Numbers  

Why Rolex Reference Numbers are Important  

Rolex reference numbers are important because they are the most efficient and precise way of describing the brand’s models. Many of Rolex’s most famous collections have been in continuous production for more than half a century, and rather than saying that you have a current-generation stainless steel Submariner Date that is fitted with a black dial, a black bezel, and powered by the Caliber 3235 automatic movement, you could simply say that you have a ref. 126610LN and this would convey all of the same information.  

 Since Rolex’s design language is notoriously consistent, reference numbers can serve as a quick and easy way to distinguish the generation of a specific model. For example, the two most recent generations of the Rolex Submariner can almost appear identical, although the ref. 124060 is the current model that offers a slightly larger 41mm case with the updated Caliber 3235 movement. Additionally, since Rolex reference numbers describe the brand’s models, they can also serve as a way to tell if a watch is fake or if it has been modified from its original factory-intended condition. For example, if you see a Datejust 36 with a reference number engraving that reads “126200” but it has a white gold fluted bezel, then that is a clear indication that the bezel is non-original, as the reference number 126200 explicitly corresponds to a stainless steel Datejust 36 that is fitted with a matching smooth bezel made from stainless steel.  

 Understanding Rolex reference numbers is crucial to expanding your knowledge of the brand’s catalog, and knowing how to decode them can tell you many of the important details about a specific timepiece, without ever having to handle the watch or even seeing a photo of it. Just like Rolex’s catalog, the brand’s reference number system is always evolving, and as new models are released each year, its reference number system must continuously adapt accordingly. With that in mind, recognizing the various patterns and codes that exist among Rolex reference numbers is the single best way to learn more about the brand’s offerings, and being fluent in this unique system will allow you to quickly navigate Rolex’s lineup and gain a better understanding of its history and evolution. 

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