It’s been awhile due to personal commitments, but this week(ish) we are back with some really cool releases from H Moser & Cie, Formex, Kurono Tokyo, Nomos, Grand Seiko, and Omega. First though, we have to take a look at the remarkable news of HODINKEE’s acquisition by Watches of Switzerland. These are the top 7 things in the world of watches, let’s get into it.
HODINKEE acquired by Watches of Switzerland
Back in July this year, Ben Clymer put out a message on the shift in HODINKEE’s direction following the downturn in the overall watch market and the inevitable impact it has had on HODINKEE’s watch retail (new and used) business. In his announcement, he spoke of the company’s refocusing on its core business i.e. media production, and the discontinuation of its retail business. Well, now we see how that will actually be viable, with HODINKEE’s acquisition by Watches of Switzerland. I will not go into the nitty gritty of what was announced (you can read Ben Clymer’s message here), but the gist is that HODINKEE will continue to produce the content written and otherwise that it made its name for, now with the financial backing of one of the biggest watch retailers in the world. The former will no longer have to be encumbered with earning through watch sales since that will come solely under the ambit of the latter. On the other hand, Watches of Switzerland will gain control of the leading voice in the watch media space, though it remains to be seen how that will directly benefit Watches of Switzerland. It is also worth noting that with this acquisition, all other stakeholders in HODINKEE have been bought out, the largest of which being LVMH. It is the end of era of sorts, and an interesting new future lies ahead. Time will tell what form and shape that will take. Personally, if we get back to the level of quality that HODINKEE used to put out about 3-5 years ago, watch enthusiasts would be the biggest winners.
H Moser & Cie Pioneer Retrograde Seconds
H Moser & Cie (Moser) just keeps getting better and better. This year, the brand has already launched what was my favourite watch from Watches & Wonders in the skeletonised tourbillon Streamliner, a brilliant new purple Streamliner, and a Passion project with Studio Underd0g to name a few. But it has now gone on and released a brand new complication to its collection, in the Pioneer Retrograde Seconds.
Overall, this was a brilliant release from Moser, to my anyway. The addition of the retrograde seconds makes the watch far more interesting which out a commensurate price hike. The colour combination of the blue dial and dark grey brushed and grained finish of the complication is also perfect. I do wish the watch was a tad smaller, but that is subjective and hey, you can’t always have everything you want can you? In any case, Moser has been on such a brilliant trajectory this year, and I cannot wait to see what is next.
Check out the full article here.
Formex Stratos UTC 41mm
Formex is doing really cool things. Sure, you could say that I am biased, we have just released a limited edition with them recently, but my comment stems from the fact that the brand has just launched what I think is there most ambitious watch to date in the Stratos UTC 41mm Automatic. What we have is Formex’s unique take on a true traveller’s GMT watch and I think the result is great.
The watch overall is very impressive, mixing new (to the brand) levels of case complexity and finishing with innovative solutions on the movement front. The dials are great to look at too. As a whole package, I think Formex has another hit on their hands.
Check out the full article here.
Kurono Tokyo Special Projects Reserve de Marche
The first article I wrote about Kurono Tokyo was back in 2022 on the brand’s Grand Mori line. Since then though, the brand has not really evolved or grown all that much beyond dial colour changes, though every now and then it drops something that is pretty unique, by its own standards. That is just the case here, with the Special Projects Reserve de Marche, which introduces a new set of complications.
Like many of the earlier releases from Kurono, these new watches are extremely elegant watches. The new dials are pretty cool with the level of depth that has been incorporated in, something I appreciate more than the guilloche added. I do find the addition of especially the 24-hour indicator pretty pointless, though I guess it does add another sector for the brand to carve out to showcase its ability create the depth that I mentioned earlier. I also find the inclusion of the heat blued hands and the Kanji numerals on different variants a great conundrum since I am a fan of both but can only buy one. All in all, a great pair to release to refresh things for a brand I personally have found to be getting a tad stale over the past year or so.
Check out the full article here.
Nomos Tangente 2Date
“The new Nomos Tangente 2Date – features the in-house hand-wound DUW 4601 caliber! This latest release from @nomos_glashuette keeps the brand’s signature Bauhaus-inspired design while adding a fresh take on functionality. The cool 41mm case gives it a slightly larger presence on the wrist compared to the classic Tangente. And here’s where it gets even better – adding a big date function, placed at 3 o’clock. How the movement was “enlarged,” as can be seen through the transparent caseback, is a bit of a weird one, but hey, you can’t win it all.
However, the new DUW 4601, a hand-wound movement, is a technical marvel. Developed in-house by Nomos, it offers a remarkable 72-hour power reserve and introduces refined precision in a slim form factor. With this new caliber, you’re not just getting a watch; you’re getting a finely tuned piece of sleek German engineering.
A closer look reveals the watch’s clean and orderly dial with sharp typography, typical of Nomos’ dedication to understated elegance. The added date functionality blends seamlessly into the layout, making it both practical and aesthetically pleasing. If Bauhaus is your thing, we urge you to check it out. Do you really need two dates though?” – Ralf a.k.a. @koolpep_watches
Grand Seiko SBGW321 Nishikigoi & SBGY040 Chisen Teien
“Oh well – Koi and Raked stone paths in a garden – Grand Seiko never disappoints if it comes to “nature-inspired designs.” In this case, the SBGW321 Nishikigoi takes its cue from the striking red and gold hues of the Nishikigoi carp, a symbol of beauty and longevity in Japan. It features a vibrant red dial with golden hands and markers, encased in a 36.5mm stainless steel case. The radial spiral texture on the dial represents the ripples on a pond, evoking the serene movement of koi fish. Powered by the manual-winding Calibre 9S64, it offers a power reserve of 72 hours. This model is limited to 300 pieces and is priced at EUR 6,100.
Whereas the SBGY040 Chisen Teien, inspired by a traditional Japanese garden, embodies refined elegance with its rich blue dial and 18k rose gold case. The dial’s texture is influenced by Wagara, a classical Japanese pattern, simulating a raked garden’s stone paths. This 38.5mm model runs on the Spring Drive Calibre 9R31, ensuring a smooth gliding second hand and a power reserve of 72 hours. With just 20 pieces available, this watch is priced at EUR 31,100, highlighting its exclusivity.
Both timepieces celebrate the brand’s commitment to precision and artistry, making them desirable additions to any collection as long as you live in Europe, as these are European-exclusive models.” – Ralf a.k.a. @koolpep_watches
Omega Speedmaster First Omega In Space
“The Omega Speedmaster First Omega In Space is back! As you can guess, by the engraving on the caseback, October 3rd, 1962 holds the special honor of having the first Omega go to space during the Mercury-Atlas 8 mission when astronaut Walter “Wally” Schirra orbited the Earth 6 times in the Sigma 7 pod, while wearing his personal CK2998-4. This pre Moonwatch reference was reessued in 2012 and became a favorite for its more compact size and vintage touches.
For 2024, we get an update in the straight lug case in terms of finishing, and it’s thinner at 13.4mm tall while keeping the 39.7mm diameter and 48mm lug-to-lug. Omega’s new sapphire crystal beautifully takes on the appearance of the old Hesalite and is market with the logo at its center. Still keeping things old-school, instead of ceramic, the bezel is black aluminium, and in its tachymeter scale, it shows the Dot Over 90 of early Speedmaster models. The new sunray blue grey dial replicates the step dial build of the CK 2998 dial, and the fonts are reused. The hands and hour markers use aged coloured Super-LumiNova. Beating beneath the case back is the METAS certified Calibre 3861. On the 19mm bracelet the price is £7,400 or £7,100 on leather options.” – Misael Alves
So that is it for this week. As always, get in on all the action on the Scottish Watches website, Instagram, Facebook and of course, the podcast on your podcaster of choice. Till next time, take care everyone.
