Vacheron Constantin Patrimony x Ora ïto Watch Review
The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony x Ora ïto marks the 20th anniversary of the brand’s elegant collection of classically-styled watches. Indeed, since 2004 the Patrimony has been a byword for style, tastefully avoiding flamboyance and conveying the essentials of time in a refreshingly succinct form. Angus Davies provides a brief overview of this latest expression of Haute Horlogerie that draws on the creative talents of French designer, Ora ïto.
Vacheron Constantin depuis 1755
In the esoteric world of Haute Horlogerie, where aficionados value excellence and heritage, there is one name that has an unsurpassed reputation, Vacheron Constantin. The luxury marque has a rich history dating back to 1755 when Jean-Marc Vacheron recruited his first apprentice, EsaÏe Hetier, and established his now-famous company. Widely referred to as a member of the ‘Holy Trinity of Watchmaking’, sitting alongside Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe, its reputation remains unassailable. Craftsmanship, design, engineering and history have always been the pillars underpinning this most prestigious horological marque.
Image – Ref. 6179 – 1957
Back in 2004, I suspect there was a marketing professional burning the midnight oil, trying to think of a name for a new collection of models; a moniker that would encapsulate the ideals of history and heritage. This dedicated individual probably thumbed a thesaurus, looking for suitable synonyms, trying to find that one magical word that conjures up the ideas of tradition and horological legitimacy. I have a feeling said professional punched the sky when, in a eureka moment, they thought of ‘patrimony’. Some 20 years later, the Patrimony collection is celebrating its birthday and Vacheron Constantin, a brand that places much importance on milestones, has marked the event with a limited edition timepiece made in collaboration with French designer, Ora ïto.
Vacheron Constantin x Ora ïto
The aptly named Vacheron Constantin Patrimony x Ora ïto perpetuates the collection’s reputation for clean lines and simple to read indications. Ora ïto is a multi-talented individual who has conceived an array of objects ranging from cars, sunglasses, headphones, electric bikes and furniture. His versatility is beyond question and his eye for functionality and style is hugely impressive, skills that led him to becoming a Vacheron Constantin ‘One of Not Many’ talent back in 2019.
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony x Ora ïto – simplicity in design
The inaugural Patrimony of 2004 was inspired by the Ref. 6187 of 1957, a slender three-hander with baton-style indexes that was housed in a sumptuous gold case. The 2004 timepiece eschewed the centre seconds hand, but the familial likeness was clear to see. The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony x Ora ïto also shares much in common with the Ref. 6187, including the presence of a centre seconds hand but also with the addition of a date indication at 6 o’clock. The dial pairs slender yellow gold hands with a gold pearl minute track, punctuated with period-inspired indexes.
Image – Ref. 6187 – 1957
Ora ïto has enlivened the dial with his own unique sense of style. The dial’s epidermis is formed of concentric circles emanating from the fulcrum of the display. By placing each circlet in close proximity to its neighbour, the dial surface enjoys wonderful reciprocity with light, conferring a notable warmth to the model’s appearance. Ora ïto is said to be ‘a longtime admirer of the Patrimony collection, a horological embodiment of his “simplexity” concept’. And it is this overriding sense of simplicity that pervades each square millimetre of the Patrimony x Ora ïto.
The case, measuring 40 mm in diameter, is formed of 18-carat 3N yellow gold, a hue that has a slightly vintage character. Unquestionably luxurious, it plays a supporting role to the dial’s circular performance front of house. The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony x Ora ïto affixes to the wrist with a distinctive burgundy calfskin strap, embossed with a rectangular motif. While enriched with nuanced details, the prevailing sentiment of this timepiece is one of minimalism and simplicity.
Vacheron Constantin Calibre 2450
The Juxtaposition of two contrasting elements is a characteristic common to some of the finest exemplars of Haute Horlogerie. While the dial fanfares simplicity, the movement is inherently complex. Indeed, there is a notable degree of sophistication to be found on the Vacheron Constantin Calibre 2450. Allow me to elaborate.
Images – Les Cabinotiers – The Berkeley Grand Complication
Vacheron Constantin is known for making movements overflowing with mechanical intricacies, including Les Cabinotiers – The Berkeley Grand Complication, the world’s most complicated watch unveiled earlier this year at Watches & Wonders 2024. By comparison, the Calibre 2450 is much simpler, nevertheless, it is a self-winding movement, features 196 components and will run autonomously for approximately 40 hours. Moreover, the Calibre 2450 is the epitome of svelteness, measuring a mere 3.6 mm in height. To design a movement that occupies such a modest amount of space, that’s precise and remains sufficiently rigid to avoid unwanted flex is no small feat. Indeed, few Maisons are up to the task, but then again, with almost 270 years amassed know-how, Vacheron Constantin has repeatedly shown it is up to the task.
This automatic movement also distinguishes itself as extraordinary courtesy of its exalted finishing. Bearing the Poinçon de Genève, the Calibre 2450 is finished to an exalted standard. All signs of machining are painstakingly removed and a variety of decoration techniques are imparted to surfaces, including perlage, Côtes de Genève, anglage, etc. A watch carrying the Hallmark of Geneva (Poinçon de Genève) will be subject to the watchful eye of TimeLab, the independent body responsible for upholding standards.
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony x Ora ïto – closing remarks
Since the Genevan marque unveiled the first Patrimony model in 2004, the collection has become known to legions of watch aficionados. Its fusion of clean classicism and refined micromechanics has never lost its allure. Created in collaboration with Ora ïto, this latest expression of Patrimony ownership may not be the most complicated reference from Vacheron Constantin, but it says much about its discerning wearer and the expertise of this exceptional longstanding Maison.
Further reading
https://www.vacheron-constantin.com/
Technical specifications
- Model: Vacheron Constantin Patrimony x Ora ïto
- Reference: 85180/000J-H069
- Case: 18k 3N yellow gold, diameter 40 mm, height 8.55 mm, sapphire crystal to front, exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, centre seconds, date
- Movement: Calibre 2450, self-winding movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz), 27 jewels, power reserve approximately 40 hours, 196 components
- Strap: burgundy calfskin leather strap with calfskin lining paired with an 18K 3N yellow gold pin buckle.
- Price: £34,000 (RRP as of 10.9.2024)
- Limited Edition: 100 pieces