Was it bound to happen or is it a pleasant surprise? Hot off the press, the Fears Watch Company has now introduced the Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour to the core collection of their most popular cushion-cased watch. If your memory serves you well it has been over a year and a half since Fears teamed up with Christopher Ward to release the Alliance 01 collaboration (pictured below) which was limited to 50 pieces for Alliance members only and came complete with a classy burgundy dial and on a matching leather strap. At first sight, there does not appear to be much difference between the original collaboration released last year and this new one, but that said, there are a few key differences to this release, so let’s take a look at them.
Design & Watch Specifications
Stainless steel, 40.5mm x 12.8mm x 47mm cushion case; Jump hour display with minute hand dial, Signed crown; engraved screw-down caseback; 100m water resistant, 20mm lug width, 5-link bracelet or calf leather strap
As the name suggests, the new Brunswick 40.5 Jumping Hour sits in the Brunswick collection which comes its now instantly recognizable cushion case albeit in with the largest dimensions of 40.5mm x 47mm x 12.8mm even if just by a hair. It is certainly still wearable especially when you consider that it features a jumping hour time telling mechanism. Like with the Alliance 01 which also comes in the same size, this comes in the form the hour display in a window at 12 o’clock on the dial, which jumps instantly at the turn of each hour. However, there are a few minor nuanced changes that set this apart from the original. For one, jump hours now comes in a custom version of Fears’ in-house ‘Edwin’ typeface created specifically to be viewed through the large circular “art deco-esque” window at 12 o’clock, The numerals are painted in glossy black that contrasts beautifully against the stylish bright white hour disc beneath the dial.
The most apparent update though, is in the minute dial that is featured via a smaller centre dial that features a discrete straight sword minute hand and a minute track with 5 minute increments. It is this minute track that has been updated for the better in my opinion, since the centre of the minute dial is now recessed, which gives the minute track an applied visual. This adds greater depth to the dial and allows the different finishing on the centre portion to stand out against the three new dial colours i.e. Raven Black, Coral Lacquer, and Mallard Green. Raven Black is bears the most similarities with the original Alliance 01, featuring concentric guilloche on the centre dial. Coral Lacquer as the name suggests comes with that polished lacquer sheen which contrasts beautifully against the black brushed minute track giving it a sort of a floating vibe. Finally, Mallard Green’s centre dial while also featuring concentric rings adds a sunburst effect creating more complex visual that pairs nicely with the rhodium plated brushed minute track.
Collectively, the three new models add a nice mix of visuals to choose from, with the Raven Black being the most serious and understated, while Coral Lacquer adds some much-appreciated fun to the trio and the Mallard Green brings a touch of elegance and with just the right air of cool to round things up.
Movement
Sellita SW200 base w Christopher Ward developed JJ01 Jumping hour Module, Automatic, 4Hz, 38 hours power reserve
This new Brunswick 40.5 Jumping Hour features the same instantaneous jumping hour used in the Alliance 01 which is made by, you guessed it, Christopher Ward. It starts out as a Sellita SW200 base movement but is modified with Christopher Ward’s in-house developed JJ01 jumping hour module that gives this watch its most distinctive feature. Like the base movement, this modified movement runs at 28,800vph (4Hz) and has the same limited power reserve of 38 hours.
Price & Availability
£4,450 on bracelet or £4,250 on leather strap, Regular production (Mallard green is a boutique edition), Availabale immediately
The new Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour range is available to purchase directly from the Fears Boutique in Bristol, via the Fears website (www.fearswatches.com) and through the network of Fears Authorised Stockists globally. The Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour retails for £4,250 inc. VAT (£3,541.67 ex. VAT) on a handmade leather strap and £4,450 inc. VAT on a 5-link stainless steel bracelet. Delivery will commence from today.
Concluding Thoughts
Whilst some may think the 40.5 mm case may be a tad on the large side, having received one to review (on the bracelet and in Raven Black) I think the proportions wear well and make for a very well made and stylish watch. It has a good weight and does not dominate the wrist with that bracelet, in fact, the bracelet was a pleasant surprise on how well proportioned it was and had enough heft to know it was there but not so overbearing that I felt it was weighing me down. The curved nature of the caseback also makes it a pleasure to wear in any number of scenarios.
The three colors are intriguing, Mallard Green now being the standard color for boutique exclusive pieces, and Raven Black is the standard neutral and versatile one, however, the Coral Lacquer is very intriguing indeed, and a bold and rather playfully natty option for such a classic looking watch with art deco vibes. Most importantly, don’t misinterpret my comments above on the Raven Black dial as being “boring”, au contraire my friends, it fits so well with the design language and style cues this watch was clearly created to emanate. The negative space is so perfectly executed on the dial, especially the ridged central disc, which sparks for me at least, the sensation of grooves on an old vinyl record used on an old 1920s gramophone. Double that up with the sunburst outer disc, The Brunswick 40.5 Jumping Hour has a sophisticated, good looking, and yet understated visage that is so quintessentially English, and I have to say, so “Quintessentially Fears”.
More information can be found at https://www.fearswatches.com/
