 
H Moser & Cie (Moser) just keeps getting better and better. This year, the brand has already launched what was my favourite watch from Watches & Wonders in the skeletonised tourbillon Streamliner, a brilliant new purple Streamliner, and a Passion project with Studio Underd0g to name a few. But it has now gone on and released a brand new complication to its collection, in the Pioneer Retrograde Seconds. Let’s get into it.
Design & Watch Specifications
Stainless steel, 42.8mm x 14.2mm case, Midnight blue fumé w sunburst pattern, Transparent lacquer Moser logo Applied & faceted, Semi-skeletonised leaf-shaped hour & minute hands w Super-LumiNova, Semi-circle for 30-second retrograde dial & double snail cam w two-tone disc to indicate period of cycle, 120m water resistance, 22mm lug width, Black rubber strap
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As the name suggests, Moser’s latest watch sits in its Pioneer collection and carries that series DNA through and through. That means a round stainless steel case with somewhat skeletonized sides showing off fine vertical divisions which add welcome complexity as does the elegant rounded edges of the case. With the retrograde seconds, the brand has needed to use its larger 42.8mm x 14.2mm case, which is a shame in my opinion, though certainly not unwearable by any stretch.
The dial though, is unsurprisingly the standout even more so than usual. It comes in a signature midnight blue with the recognizable fumé and transparent lacquer logo, something that the brand has made its own. As beautiful as the dial is to behold, it is the new retrograde 30-second complication that takes things to the next level. Moser wisely opted against a simple retrograde display, choosing instead to use a semi-circle aperture with a brushed the 30-second scale that blends into double bridges that also hold the seconds hand and two-tone disc for the period of the cycle, set above a grained base plate. The result gives the watch an aura of complexity far beyond what a time-only watch should be able to portray. The colors are perfect too, with the mostly deep grey (apart from the seconds markers, and the second colour on the two-tone disc) a perfect complement to the blue fumé dial. Complete with half skeletonized hour and minutes hands and applied faceted indices, the Pioneer Retrograde Seconds is a really cool watch that punches above its weight visually speaking.
The watch comes with a 22mm lug width on a black rubber strap (a choice I’ve never been a fan of giving the dial color) and has 150m water resistance which makes for a really functional day-to-day watch.
Movement
HMC caliber 250 developed w Agenhor SA, automatic, 3 Hz, 72 hours power reserve, 30 seconds retrograde seconds complication, Bi-directional pawl winding system, Straumann hairspring
Powering this watch is the Moser’s Calibre HMC 250 which is based on its relatively newer HMC 201. The HMC 201 is a major upgrade visually on the HMC 200 because of the dark anthracite finish that comes complete with the brand’s signature double stripes, polished bevels, and skeletonized bridges and rotors. The effect, like that of the retrograde movement, elevates the feel of the complexity of the watch. Speaking of the retrograde complication, it was developed by the brand’s partner Agenhor SA which just so happens to be an expert in retrograde movements. It is impressive that despite the inclusion of this module, the movement still possesses a respectable 72 hours of power reserve.
Price & Availability
CHF 19,900, Regular Production
Despite the visual complexity of the watch, a retrograde seconds hands complication does not move the needle significantly in terms of costs and Moser has maintained its rough pricing model for this new release at CHF 19,900. It is not a steal, but it is also not unreasonable in my opinion.
Concluding Thoughts
Overall, this was a brilliant release from Moser, to me anyway. The addition of the retrograde seconds makes the watch far more interesting which out a commensurate price hike. The color combination of the blue dial and dark grey brushed and grained finish of the complication is also perfect. I do wish the watch was a tad smaller, but that is subjective and hey, you can’t always have everything you want can you? In any case, Moser has been on such a brilliant trajectory this year, and I cannot wait to see what is next.
